{"id":9314,"date":"2025-05-13T18:23:09","date_gmt":"2025-05-13T16:23:09","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/anavole.fr\/?p=9314"},"modified":"2025-05-19T11:19:11","modified_gmt":"2025-05-19T09:19:11","slug":"sur-les-traces-de-tamerlan-1","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/anavole.fr\/?p=9314","title":{"rendered":"Sur les traces de Tamerlan *1"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Direction plein Est pour ce nouveau d\u00e9part. Nous d\u00e9collons pour Tachkent, capitale de l&rsquo;O&rsquo;zb\u00e9kiston (Ouzb\u00e9kistan en fran\u00e7ais), le pays des Ouzbeks comme son nom l&rsquo;indique. Nous atterrissons \u00e0 3h du matin et avec 3 h de d\u00e9calage horaire, il est d\u00e9j\u00e0 6 h. Deux petites heures de sommeil, ce n&rsquo;est pas bien lourd pour entamer notre premi\u00e8re grande journ\u00e9e. On prend un petit d\u00e9jeuner, puis on embarque pour un voyage de 4h vers la vall\u00e9e du Ferghana \u00e0 l&rsquo;extr\u00e9mit\u00e9 orientale du pays. Les autres voitures partent et nous attendons la n\u00f4tre une heure. Et c&rsquo;est enfin le d\u00e9part. Un petit arr\u00eat le long d&rsquo;un joli barrage, un autre pour tenter d&rsquo;admirer les montagnes enneig\u00e9es, un autre arr\u00eat pour voir des rhubarbes sauvages en vente le long de la route (c&rsquo;est apparemment un rem\u00e8de miracle pour de nombreuses maladies&#8230;) et un dernier pour acheter un bon pain chaud cuit sur les parois d&rsquo;un four au feu de bois. Miam, trop bon !<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000007.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-9315\" src=\"http:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000007-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000007-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000007-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000007.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a> \u00a0 <a href=\"http:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000009-rotated.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-9316\" src=\"http:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000009-225x300.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"225\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000009-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000009-rotated.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 225px) 100vw, 225px\" \/><\/a> \u00a0 <a href=\"http:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000012-scaled.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-9317\" src=\"http:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000012-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000012-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000012-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000012-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000012-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000012-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Nous franchissons un col \u00e0 2 200 m qui nous am\u00e8ne dans cette vall\u00e9e prise en \u00e9tau entre l&rsquo;Ouzb\u00e9kistan, le Tadjikistan et le Kirghizistan. Elle concentre plus de 10 millions d&rsquo;habitants et est travers\u00e9e par le Syr Daria ancien fleuve devenu rivi\u00e8re depuis qu&rsquo;il ne se jette plus dans la Mer d&rsquo;Aral, pour cause d&rsquo;irrigation intense des champs de coton au temps des sovi\u00e9tiques. Nous rejoignons le reste du groupe au restaurant, il est 14h30. Nous avalons un plat de nouilles et nous partons visiter la ville de CO&rsquo;CON (prononcez kokand, oui je sais, c&rsquo;est bizarre).<\/p>\n<p>Premi\u00e8re visite pour le Palais de Khudayar Khan, dernier Khan de la ville, qui l&rsquo;\u00e9difia pour sa m\u00e8re kirghize en 1873. Elle ne s&rsquo;y installa pas car elle pr\u00e9f\u00e9rait vivre dans sa yourte traditionnelle install\u00e9e dans une cour du palais. De cet immense palais de plus de 100 pi\u00e8ces, il n&rsquo;en reste qu&rsquo;une vingtaine. La plus grande part et notamment le harem a \u00e9t\u00e9 d\u00e9truite par les Russes.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000015-scaled.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-9318\" src=\"http:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000015-225x300.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"225\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000015-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000015-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000015-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000015-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000015-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 225px) 100vw, 225px\" \/><\/a> \u00a0 <a href=\"http:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000024-scaled.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-9319\" src=\"http:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000024-225x300.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"225\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000024-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000024-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000024-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000024-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000024-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 225px) 100vw, 225px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Et nous avons droit \u00e0 un concert, le fruit du hasard !<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000028-scaled.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-9320\" src=\"http:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000028-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000028-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000028-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000028-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000028-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000028-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a> \u00a0 <a href=\"http:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000031-scaled.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-9321\" src=\"http:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000031-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000031-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000031-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000031-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000031-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000031-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Puis nous nous rendons \u00e0 la Mosqu\u00e9e du Vendredi. Construite par Omar Khan en 1812, elle est compos\u00e9e de 98 piliers de bois. Son minaret pointe dans un jardin et ses plafonds multicolores sont splendides.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000045-scaled.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-9322\" src=\"http:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000045-225x300.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"225\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000045-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000045-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000045-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000045-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000045-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 225px) 100vw, 225px\" \/><\/a> \u00a0 <a href=\"http:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000046-scaled.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-9323\" src=\"http:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000046-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000046-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000046-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000046-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000046-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000046-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000049-scaled.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-9324\" src=\"http:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000049-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000049-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000049-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000049-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000049-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000049-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a> \u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000051-scaled.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone wp-image-9325 size-medium\" src=\"http:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000051-scaled-e1746029637786-225x300.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"225\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000051-scaled-e1746029637786-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000051-scaled-e1746029637786-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000051-scaled-e1746029637786-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000051-scaled-e1746029637786-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000051-scaled-e1746029637786.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 225px) 100vw, 225px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Notre journ\u00e9e n&rsquo;est pas termin\u00e9e et la fatigue commence vraiment \u00e0 se faire sentir. Nous arrivons maintenant au cimeti\u00e8re royal o\u00f9 deux mausol\u00e9es se d\u00e9tachent. Dans le premier repose Omar Khan, son fr\u00e8re et son fils. A l&rsquo;entr\u00e9e plusieurs femmes proposent des petits massages pour faire disparaitre le mal. Le second est d\u00e9di\u00e9 \u00e0 la m\u00e8re d&rsquo;Omar Khan.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000054-scaled.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-9326\" src=\"http:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000054-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000054-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000054-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000054-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000054-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000054-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"http:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000055-scaled.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-9327\" src=\"http:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000055-225x300.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"225\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000055-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000055-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000055-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000055-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000055-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 225px) 100vw, 225px\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"http:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000058-scaled.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-9328\" src=\"http:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000058-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000058-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000058-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000058-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000058-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000058-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>En ressortant du cimeti\u00e8re nous passons derri\u00e8re la terrasse de la M\u00e9dersa Narbouta Bey, o\u00f9 les fid\u00e8les sont \u00e0 la pri\u00e8re. Cette m\u00e9dersa, \u00e9cole coranique, a \u00e9t\u00e9 transform\u00e9e en mosqu\u00e9e en 2016.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000062-scaled.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-9329\" src=\"http:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000062-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000062-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000062-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000062-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000062-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000062-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"http:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000064-scaled.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-9330\" src=\"http:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000064-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000064-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000064-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000064-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000064-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/anavole.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/P1000064-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Et cette fois nous rentrons \u00e0 l&rsquo;h\u00f4tel. Il est 18h. Bient\u00f4t une grande nuit de sommeil. Ouf !<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Direction plein Est pour ce nouveau d\u00e9part. Nous d\u00e9collons pour Tachkent, capitale de l&rsquo;O&rsquo;zb\u00e9kiston (Ouzb\u00e9kistan en fran\u00e7ais), le pays des Ouzbeks comme son nom l&rsquo;indique. Nous atterrissons \u00e0 3h du matin et avec 3 h &hellip; <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":9331,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[5],"tags":[72],"class_list":["post-9314","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-ailleurs","tag-ouzbekistan"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/anavole.fr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/9314"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/anavole.fr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/anavole.fr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/anavole.fr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/anavole.fr\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=9314"}],"version-history":[{"count":8,"href":"https:\/\/anavole.fr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/9314\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":9638,"href":"https:\/\/anavole.fr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/9314\/revisions\/9638"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/anavole.fr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/9331"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/anavole.fr\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=9314"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/anavole.fr\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=9314"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/anavole.fr\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=9314"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}